Criterion Restaurant, a stalwart of the London restaurant scene, has reopened under new ownership and with a new head chef. With this development, the Piccadilly Circus landmark will cement its positioning among London’s most important restaurants, with a new lease of life following a period of uncertainty.

Originally opened in 1874, the Grade II listed lavish space has undergone a gentle and sympathetic restoration of its spectacular interiors. Original features remain intact, particularly noteworthy are the gilded ceilings, marble floors, mirrored walls and imposing arches, while new furniture has refreshed the space.

The new head chef is 27-year Matthew Foxon, previously of The Rosendale, winner of the Time Out award for best gastropub. Foxon’s all-encompassing a la carte menu offers something for everyone. Both the simplicity and luxury of the menu combines perfectly with the neo Byzantine grandeur of the dining room creating an experience that is perfect for both a formal business meal and relaxed social dining.

Foxon incorporates the finest produce from within the British Isles. Fish is freshly caught every morning in the small fishing village of Looe in Cornwall, meat is all rare breed and sourced from individual farms. Bread and butter is made in house, additionally the brigade smoke their own fish and make their own pasta, ricotta, ice cream and sorbet.

Highlights from the menu include ‘Diver caught scallops, samphire, girolles, pine nut cream’ (£13),‘Kenzie farm ostrich, dukkha spices, sweet potato, beef bobotjie’ (£20) and ‘5 week aged Hereford fore rib, sautéed ratte potatoes, brussel sprouts’ (£28). Desserts feature a ‘Malva pudding, rooibos mousse and amarula ice cream’ (£8) as well as the ‘Dark and white chocolate tart with praline mousse and kumquat compote’ (£9.50).

A set menu is available at lunch, pre and post theatre, and priced at £16.95 two courses and £19.95 for three courses.

A traditional afternoon tea has been newly introduced, available Thursdays to Sundays. Classic tea varieties and a selection of homemade finger sandwiches, scones, and mini desserts are offered, priced at £29 or £36 when accompanied by a glass of Champagne.

The grandeur of the Criterion ‘Long Bar’ works as an independent drinking destination in itself with wines, cocktails and bar snacks to be enjoyed while overlooking the hustle and bustle of Piccadilly Circus. Signature cocktails include a Rose Petal Bellini (£10.50), Cucumber and Elderflower Martini (£8.50), Caunuck Mojito (£9.50), New York Sour (£9.50), and a non-alcoholic Green Apple Ginger (£6.75). The comprehensive international wine list has been assembled by restaurant manager Simon Wilson-White, featuring New and Old World varieties with 170 bins and a strong selection by the glass and half bottle.